Scooter Stalls and Wont Start Again Until Cool
You stop for gas on your way to work.
You pump the fuel, run inside for a coffee and muffin, scarf it down and bound back on the wheel, simply now that it's hot, it won't start.
It started when it was cold this forenoon, but why won't your motorcycle starting time when hot?
Numerous electrical components could be the culprit. Equally there are a few other potential parts that'll impair the ignition process, nosotros've put together this list of X Reasons a motorcycle won't hot start.
Here is the short respond to why a motorbike won't kickoff when hot:
If a motorcycle won't hot start, it may be due to a weakness or failure with an electric component. As electronics become hot, resistance accumulates; and a faulty electrical component will have a harder time performance when it'south hot.
1. Weak Battery
A weak battery may take had enough voltage to start the motorcycle when the bike was withal common cold, but fifty-fifty mod stators need at least 15 minutes to charge the battery.
There are a few reasons a battery might dice. If the cycle sits inactive for an extended menses without a battery tender hooked up, your battery capacity will plummet.
Your bicycle undergoes a process called parasitic bleed. Many modern motos use CPUs, and the units sap bits of energy from the battery while the cycle is off to keep themselves functional. Or maybe in that location'due south corrosion in the ground wires. Regardless, if you're not riding and you're non tendering, your battery isn't charging.
Y'all may have had plenty juice to get you lot started, but were you lot on the wheel for at least 15 minutes (or much longer on a bike with an older charging system)?
If not, you may have killed the final of the juice you had on ignition.
Check your battery with a voltmeter. If it's but expressionless, give it a charge. If it's all the fashion bad, it won't hold a charge, and it'll need to be replaced.
2. Tight Valve Clearance
If your valve clearance is smaller than the spec outlined in the service transmission of your motorcycle, your bicycle will fail to start when hot.
The valve-metallic expands when it gets hot. Therefore, if your motorcycle'due south valve clearances are less than spec, in that location'll be even less clearance one time the bike gets hot.
If the valve expands enough to tighten upwardly and agree itself open up, y'all'll lose engine compression, and the engine won't start.
Valve adjustments are a bike-specific procedure to be done in adherence with service manual specs and feeler gauges. If you don't have the tools and know-how, it might be good to get professional person help on this one.
3. Worn Spark Plugs
In one case a spark plug dies, a motorcycle volition crank over just never startup. If the spark plug isn't completely dead, it might burn down up when you start hop-on, simply to weaken from engine heat during the ride and fail on your next hot first.
A spark plug that's at the end of its life causes a bike to run more poorly than usual.
Oestrus can also cleft an erstwhile, worn, and torn spark plug.
Once cracked, the spark recognizes the scissure as the path of least resistance and grounds out through the engine cake before it travels to the gap and ignites the motor.
4. Loose or Cracked Spark Plug Wires
If your cycle started cold just fine, and your spark plug wire loosens or cracks while yous 're riding, your motorcycle won't hot start or ignite at all until yous replace the wires.
A loose spark plug boot is an easy set; skid the boot back onto the plug until the connection is secure.
A cracked spark plug wire is another story. On a long rough timeline, engine heat can vesture downwards the wire-safety, and today's ride may have been the safe wire straw that broke the moto camel's back.
If the heat of your ride fried your spark plug wires, your bike wouldn't start again until they've been replaced, and you may also replace them all at once.
5. Bad Ignition Coil
A worn ignition coil won't spark when information technology'southward hot, and therefore the motorcycle won't fire upwardly. If your motorbike won't hot starting time, carefully touch the ignition ringlet; if it'due south too hot to go out your finger on, a bad ignition scroll could be the problem.
Your bike might plow over fine when it's cold, merely it builds resistance as the coil heats up with the resonating engine heat. When you come back for a hot start after being in the saddle, the curl volition be too weak to support the spark.
Heat can also degrade the coil'south windings. It'south possible that your coil was still ok at the common cold start, but the oestrus of the ride finally did your old curlicue in.
Replacing an ignition roll is an like shooting fish in a barrel job for anyone with basic moto-mechanic skills and a quick-fix at whatever bike repair shop. Simply examination out your curl with a voltmeter to ensure that's the culprit before you lot get through the trouble of replacing information technology.
Related: Motorcycle Cold Start Bug? 4 Things You Should Check For
half dozen. Slipper Spring Grounds Points when Hot
If your motorcycle has points for older bikes, a worn slipper spring could interfere with your hot starts.
As the bicycle heats, the spring expands, arching between the slipper spring on the points and a nearby spiral, and the arch grounds out the points before they transfer energy to the plugs.
Replacing the spring or rigging information technology, and so information technology doesn't footing out the charge, could be enough to fix a failing hot showtime.
seven. Weak or Declining Charging Organisation
A weak stator can stop operation once the bike gets hot, leaving your bombardment drained below the voltage necessary to hot offset your motorcycle.
As mentioned earlier, electronics go hot and quit working. When you go to hot offset your bike support, your battery might not accept the juice it needs to turn over.
For example, if the stator cracks, the engine may aggrandize the metal and widen the scissure enough to fry the stator.
To make sure it's the stator and not your battery, use a voltmeter to exam the stator directly.
Knock out what we refer to every bit a "static stator" test start.
- Pic off the ignition switch, and continue the bike off.
- Disconnect your stator from the Regulator/Rectifier.
- Fix your multimeter to "Ohms" (or Resistance), as low as the scale goes.
- Stick a probe into one of the pin sockets on the stator and basis the other probe somewhere onto the chassis of your motorcycle.
- Your display should read either with an infinity symbol or the word "open up," indicating an open circuit. If it reads anything else and your excursion is grounded, your stator is fried, and it's time to bandy a new one onto your motorcycle.
If the battery and the above stator test cheque out fine, the problem could be estrus damage to the rotor that spins around the stator. If the motor overheats and fails, it'll affect your stator's output. With the stator still unhooked from the Regulator, perform the following dynamic output test:
- For this ane, yous want the bike's motor running. Set the multimeter to Air-conditioning voltage and hook the probes upwards to the stator sockets.
- Striking the throttle until your engine revs at iii,000 RPMs.
- Check the meter reading. If it'south less than threescore volts, your rotor is shot and needs to be swapped out for a new one.
If the stator passes both tests, information technology could exist an issue with the Regulator/Rectifier:
- Kill the bike, flick off the ignition switch, and hook the stator support to the Regulator. Set your multimeter to check amps on the depression-scale setting.
- Commencement the motorcycle and make sure all electronics are flipped on—every accompaniment.
- Uninstall the negative battery last and connect the meter probes to the negative battery post and the negative cables.
- Bank check your reading; if it'southward less than four AMPs, the Regulator/Rectifier is your culprit and needs to exist replaced.
Related: 12 Reasons Your Motorbike Has No Ability (Explained)
8. Defective Starter
If your bike has an electric starter, a defective starter could be edifice resistance with heat and stopping your motorcycle from starting when hot.
A defective starter is easily diagnosed past the sound it makes while your wheel isn't starting.
For case, a high-pitched buzzing noise that lets you know the gears aren't even engaging indicates a bad starter. Or you may hear a clicking sound or no sound even though you've tested the battery, and the battery is charged (told you to cheque the battery offset).
All motor parts wear out eventually, and your starter is a complex working little motor on its own. Engine oestrus can article of clothing out its wires or aggrandize its components into an already tight space. If your starter is the culprit, the only feasible solution is to buy your bike a new starter.
Related: 11 Reasons Motorbike Dies When Put In Gear (Solved)
9. Declining CDI Box
A faulty CDI may work alright when the cycle is common cold, but like all the other electronics mentioned, a weakening CDI will build resistance as its temperature rises and may fail to kickoff when the bike is hot.
What Is CDI?
A Capacitor Discharge Ignition, or CDI, is similar a bombardment because it deposits energy. The CDI box has the potential to discharge its stored energy about instantly.
Then putting a CDI on an ignition circuit is a smart move. You'll often run into it as a TCI arrangement, only all CDIs employ similar fundamental parts—a ringlet, a sensor, and a box.
Troubleshooting a CDI organization on a Motorcycle that Won't Hot Start
If your bicycle starts when common cold but not hot, and the other electric components all seem to read fine, recollect about any other unconventional behaviors your bike has exhibited lately:
- Backfiring,
- Misfiring
- Baroque tach beliefs,
- And dead cylinders all related to how smoothen the motor runs are all symptoms of a failing CDI.
If it gets bad enough, you may notice your bicycle wouldn't low rev without dying.
CDIs tend to withhold heat a little amend than some of the other components, then check the other things on this list first.
The CDI box isn't indestructible, though, and if you take an early CDI-equipped motorcycle, it may be time to wait at replacing your CDI box.
Eliminate all other variables first, though, considering this is the about annoying troubleshoot on the list. And recollect, you can always have your motorcycle to a trusted mechanic for a chore that affects your bike'due south calculator unit of measurement, and messing with your CDI definitely does that.
At the finish of the day, there'southward no easy way to test a failing CDI unless your bike's OEM gave yous pin-past-pin CDI testing specs. If you suspect your CDI is bad, and every electrical component thus far has checked out, but cut your losses and replace the whole CDI box with a fresh one.
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Source: https://motorandwheels.com/reasons-motorcycles-wont-start-when-hot-explained/
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